Nuno Domingos is Research Fellow at the Institute of Social Sciences, University of Lisbon, Portugal. His publications include: Football and Colonialism: Body and Popular Culture in Urban Mozambique (2017) and Resistance and Colonialism: Insurgent Peoples in World History (2019) (with M. B. Jerónimo and R. Roque).José Manuel Sobral was Assistant Professor of History at the Universidade de Lisboa where he taught European Medieval History and Portuguese Contemporary History from 1977-1984, and is now Senior Research Fellow at the Instituto de Ciências Sociais, Universidade de Lisboa, where he is currently the Director of the PhD Program in Social Anthropology. He received his PhD in Social Anthropology from the Instituto Superior de Ciências do Trabalho e da Empresa in Lisbon in 1993, with a doctoral thesis focusing on the historical and social configuration of a Portuguese rural parish. Although remaining interested in the study of the structures of rural society-mainly through the lens of landownership, family, marriage and inheritance, class, power and conflict-he moved on to research on nationalism, ethnicity and racism, working on several subjects in these fields, including theories of nationalism, Portuguese national identity in a comparative perspective, definitions of Portuguese ethnicity, the national identity of black immigrants from the former Portuguese colonies, and racism and discrimination towards Roma citizens and immigrants. His major published works include a book based on his doctoral thesis, Trajectos. O Presente e o Passado na Vida de uma Freguesia da Beira (Imprensa de Ciências Sociais, Lisboa, 1999); and an essay on Portuguese national identity entitled, Portugal, Portugueses: uma identidade nacional (Fundação Francisco Manuel dos Santos, Lisboa, 2012). More recently he has conducted research on the anthropology of food, linking this subject to his interests on the study of Portuguese social structures, nationalism and ethnicity. His publications in this area include: José Manuel Sobral, 'Nacionalismo, Culinária e Classe: a Cozinha Portuguesa da Obscuridade à Consagração (séculos XIX-XX)', Ruris (Revista do Centro de Estudos Rurais, Universidade de Campinas, Brasil) Vol. 1, No. 2, pp. 13-52, 2007; José Manuel Sobral, 'Cozinha, Nacionalismo e Cosmopolitismo em Portugal (séculos XIX-XX)', in Villaverde, M., Wall, K., Aboim, S. and Silva, F. (eds.), Itinerários: A Investigação nos 25 Anos do ICS (Imprensa de Ciências Sociais, Lisboa, 2008), pp. 99-123); and José Manuel Sobral and Mónica Truninger, 'Contested Food Authenticities: A review of consumers' perspectives', in Oliveira, B., Mafra, I., and Amaral, J.S. (eds.), Current Topics on Food Authentication (Research Signpost/Transworld Research Network, India, 2011), pp. 1-22). From December 2001 to September 2006 he was President of the APA (the Portuguese Anthropological Association). He is now a member of the Consultative Council of the WCAA (World Council of Anthropological Associations). Between 1990 and 2000 he was a member of the board of SNESup (a Portuguese union of researchers and university professors). He is a member of ASFS (Association for the Study of Food & Society), the AAA (American Anthropological Association), and EASA (the European Association of Social Anthropologists).Harry G. West is Professor of Anthropology, and Chair of the Food Studies Centre, at SOAS, University of London. He worked for many years in rural Mozambique, focusing his research onthe ways in which colonialism and revolutionary socialism reconfigured institutions of local authority, and, more recently, how post-socialist reforms fostered a "revival of tradition". His major published works include:Kupilikula: Governance and the Invisible Realm in Mozambique(University of Chicago Press, 2005, first-runner-up for the US-based African Studies Association's Melville J. Herskovits Award in 2006, winner of the UK-based Royal Anthropological Institute's Amaury Talbot Prize for African Anthropology in 2007, and in Portuguese translation awardedSpecial Distinction in the Portuguese-based Instituto de Ciências Sociais, Universidade de Lisboa's A. Sedas Nunes Social Sciences Prize Competition in 2012);Ethnographic Sorcery(University of Chicago Press, 2007, first-runner-up for the US-based Society for Humanistic Anthropology's Victor Turner Prize in 2008);Transparency and Conspiracy: Ethnographies of Suspicion in the New World Order(Duke University Press, 2003, co-edited with Todd Sanders);Borders and Healers: Brokering Therapeutic Resources in Southeast Africa(Indiana University Press, 2005, co-edited with Tracy Luedke); andEnduring Socialism: Explorations of Revolution and Transformation, Restoration and Continuation(Berghahn Books, 2008, co-edited with Parvathi Raman). His recent research in the anthropology of food, funded by the British Academy, has focused on artisan cheese, discourses of 'terroir', and the global market niche in 'heritage foods.' He is particularly interested in how cheese makers have preserved and/or transformed cheesemaking techniques while navigating a changing marketplace, as well as how they have presented themselves, their locales of production, and their productive traditions to consumers new and old. Professor West directs the SOAS MA in the Anthropology of Food and was co-recipient of the 2009 Excellence in Instruction Award given by the US-based Agriculture, Food, and Human Values Society, and joint runner-up for the SOAS Director's Teaching Prize in 2011-2012. He is a member of the Advisory Board of the Oxford Symposium on Food & Cookery Trust and a Trustee of the Sophie Coe Memorial Fund, as well as a member of the summer school organizing committee of the European Institute of Food History and Culture (François-Rabelais University, Tours, France). He also serves on the editorial boards of:American Anthropologist;Food, Culture and Society; andThe Journal of Agrarian Change.

This collection of rich and engaging ethnographies reveals the changing nature of the relationship between food in the countryside and cities around the world.

This collection of rich and engaging ethnographies reveals the changing nature of the relationship between food in the countryside and cities around the world.

List of IllustrationsAcknowledgmentsContributorsIntroduction: Approaching Food and Foodways Between the Country and the City Through the Work of Raymond WilliamsNuno Domingos and José Manuel Sobral, both Instituto de Ciências Sociais, Universidade de Lisboa, Portugal, and Harry G. West, SOAS, University of London, UKSection I: Of the Country and Its FoodConflicting Wine Narratives: 'Pleasing Prospects' and the Struggles in the Construction of AlentejoNuno Domingos, Instituto de Ciências Sociais, Universidade de Lisboa, PortugalEmbodying Country-City Relations: the Chola Cuencana in Highland EcuadorEmma-Jayne Abbots, University of Wales Trinity Saint David, UKBringing the City to the Country: Supermarket Expansion, Food Practices and Aesthetics in Rural South AfricaElizabeth Hull, SOAS, University of London, UKBringing It All Back Home: Reconnecting the Country and the City through Heritage Food Tourism in the French AuvergneHarry G. West, SOAS, University of London, UKSection II: Of the City and Its FoodComing to Terms with Urban Agriculture: a Self-CritiqueLaura B. Delind, Michigan State University, USAUrban Hunger and the Home Village: How Lilongwe's Migrant Poor Stay Food SecureJohan Pottier, SOAS, University of London, UKPerceptions of the Country through the Migration of City-grown Crops: Guinean Food in Bissau and in LisbonMaria Abranches, University of Sussex, UKSection III: Of the Nation and Its FoodThe Country, the Nation and the Region in Representations of Portuguese Food and CuisineJosé Manuel Sobral, Instituto de Ciências Sociais, Universidade de Lisboa, PortugalHazz al-Quhuf: An Urban Satire on Peasant Life and Food from Seventeenth-century EgyptSami Zubaida, Birkbeck and SOAS, University of London, UKReflecting Authenticity: 'Grandmother's Yogurt' between Bulgaria and JapanMaria Yotova, University of Shiga Prefecture, JapanUnpacking the Mediterranean Diet: Agriculture, Food, and HealthMonica Truninger and Dulce Freire, both Instituto de Ciências Sociais, Universidade de Lisboa, PortugalNotesReferencesIndex

At a time when the relationship between 'the country' and 'the city' is in flux worldwide, the value and meanings of food associated with both places continue to be debated. Building upon the foundation of Raymond Williams' classic work, The Country and the City, this volume examines how conceptions of the country and the city invoked in relation to food not only reflect their changing relationship but have also been used to alter the very dynamics through which countryside and cities, and the food grown and eaten within them, are produced and sustained. Leading scholars in the study of food offer ethnographic studies of peasant homesteads, family farms, community gardens, state food industries, transnational supermarkets, planning offices, tourist boards, and government ministries in locales across the globe. This fascinating collection provides vital new insight into the contested dynamics of food and will be key reading for upper-level students and scholars of food studies, anthropology, history and geography.